This is a colection of travelling experiences and thoughts, articles i've written and other things for those who want to keep up with me as i jump around the globe a little. I hope these challenge you and make you think about your own life. I am lucky enough to travel around the Asia-Pacific region, and occasionally make it back to my home country Australia. I hope you enjoy the entries.
Saturday, October 30, 2010
Hanoi Vietnam 2010 First post on Day 1
Vietnam! The city which has forced me to start blogging again after so long. I just need to list all of the reasons why. I want to share with you what I have experienced in just one day, what I have noticed, and what conclusions I have come to already, many coming from previous travel experience. Excuse my bluntness haha. Vietnam does not warm to me like other places have. Maybe its the frame of mind I am in at the moment, maybe its the place itself, but it definately does tell me that I am back in South East Asia. It really does take a professional road-crosser to conquer the insane traffic here, and it is quite easy to do if you take the following advice. If not, your body will be firmly imprinted on the road with bus marks tattooed nicely across you. 1) Ignore all of the crossing-the-road advice your mum taught you when you were 5. 2)DO NOT LOOK LEFT AND RIGHT. 3) Slowly step out onto the street and calmly walk across the road in a straight line at the same slow pace until you reach the other side. 4) pretend that you are not looking at the oncoming traffic, but secretly look out of the corner of your eye just incase one of the many texting-while riding-my-motorbike people are heading your way. 5) If other pedestrians are crossing too, follow one at 7'oclock angle behind them to add a buffer in case you get hit.... hahaha.. ok, that is sneaky but it works if you go with other pedestrians. if you follow these road rules of mine, you will survive more than one day. There are soooo many accidents here all the time, I saw one guy being flung vertically up in the air, do three rotations mid-air, then fall gracefully to the ground after another bike clipped the front of his. He just got up and drove on like it was just a fly in his eye or something, I had to laugh. It is alot cooler than I thought it would be, I was hoping for hot hot hot.... but its cool and sunny, so I suppose I can't complain. Yesterday, the day I arrived, I caught a bike to a big shopping centre, and when I tried to go into the huge supermarket, they wouldn't let me, and pointed to my bag, then out side. So It took me a few seconds to look around and see that no bags or ANYTHING is allowed inside the shop! Only your purse in your hand. So I went and lined up to have a lady take my bag (luckily it only had some brochures inside) and I got a key for the locker it was in. I suppose that way, no-one can steal unless they put it in their pants. I vowed never to come here carrying anything, cos i didnt want to hide it in my pants because I would refuse to leave my valuables there, and I dont have a jacket to hide it in! Next challenge was shopping. I went to a shopping centre called BIG C...because it sounded big, and all good things start with C... As I was walking in this group of university age girls rushed up to me and asked me to write my name on their pice of paper....I saw the list of names looked very international cos you had to write your country too.... so reluctantly I wrote England and spelt my name totally wrong, then they asked me to sign, I was like, I'm not signing, but I thought, I'll just fake my signature too... so I did that then they gave me a free packet of toothpicks.... then I thought that was it, but when I tried to walk away they stopped me and pointed me to another section which says how much I would pay and then pulled out this English document with VIETNAM Blind Association or something and demanded that I pay a donation because I had already signed!!! I said yeah right, I dont donate by trickery, and forcedly pushed my way through them and walked on. I reminded myself why it was a stupid idea to sign in the first place even though it was all fake details.... But I was tired from my 24hour travel that I had just done! I havent lived in an Asian country for a long time and forgot how hard it is to figure out what to buy!!! it is usually limited to products with pictures on it, or things with see-through packaging, because I have no idea what the name says cos I can't read Vietnamese.... Once I make a friend or two I will get them to go shopping with me to help me learn what are the good products. And by "good" I mean avoiding dodgey products, like the sealed water I picked up, but when I held it under my arm, all the water started pouring out of the top and onto the floor, via dripping through my clothes....so much for sealed. Motorbike Taxi (herefore referred to as "moto's") drivers can be so nice sometimes, but on the flipside can be such jerks!!! One of my drivers yesterday agreed to charge 30,000Dong to drive me to the market. When we got there he demanded 40,000D. there was no miscommuncation because three fingers means 30,000, and he did not put up four fingers, and so I tried arguing but he blatently refused and was causing a scene so I angrily gave him 40,000D. The ONLY time I EVER get angry wherever I travel around the world, has only EVER been with moto taxi drivers.... So I suppose I will be happy with that cos it could be worse. Like if I couldn't stand people......or if I was allergic to nuts or wheat. Today I went for a walk around the main centre in the city of Hanoi, which has a big lake in the middle. By lake I mean body of green murkey...no, murkey means you can kind of see through it.... more green,milky dark green gross water that I swore nothing could live in....but as I sat by the edge on a chair kindly donated by Cathay Pacific..or cathay something, I saw a fish jump out! I noticed that there were birds singing in the trees so I looked up only to see a few small bird cages hanging in the tree, with noisy birds inside, that were clearly there to make bird noises because no bird in their right mind would like in Hanoi city lol.... I also noticed that one of the cages was out over the water, and I wondered how it got fed, because the tree wasn't the type you could climb...and I guessed that the only way they could feed it was to get a long pole and unhook the cage and lift it back across the water. I then wondered how many bird cages dropped into the green water and were lost forever. But then I came up with the thought that the fish that I saw jumping out of the water was some exotic imported jumping fish that they keep in a small clean watered pool in the middle of the river and makes everyone think that the green lake actually has fish in it!!!!! Thats what I think anyway haha. So yes, here I am at the end of my first 24 hours in Hanoi. Tomorrow I will try to go shopping for a few neccessities that I had to leave behind because I could only bring one suitcase, so have a busy day planned. If I am going to stay here 6-9months, then I had better learn Vietnamese fast. Kam Unh!!! Sin Loi. (PS- I officially apologise to the authorities for breaking through the restricted internet to access facbook, lol..... as if they can stop me doing that!!! I got the info on how to do it off the internet because every foreigner who lives here has done it. That makes it ok, right? lol).
Labels:
crossing the road,
Hanoi,
Luzuk,
Vietnam
Monday, September 28, 2009
Cambodia
I never tire of driving through a country like this, looking out the window of the car, or even better, from the back of a taxi motorbike with the warm humid wind rushing all over me. So many children running around playing, some chasing eachother through trees and their parents side-road lean-to shops, others competing for the few nuts remaining in the high tree tops, each one taking turns to fling the stones hoping to be the victor who would take the prize home, others lying still in their hammocks in the heat of the day. , others carrying younger siblings, even when they are barely walking themselves, some kicking bottles in a much anticipated soccer game against the kids from the other end of the village… all in innocent joy…..and these are tagged as poor poverty struck children? Hardly. I don’t know which I would prefer to see… kids running around playing together, or children glued to the tv every morning and afternoon, and when they are not doing that, they are on their gameboys and nintendos in their rooms….. interesting comparisons.
What a rich childhood for these Cambodian children…who know how to untangle and fix fish nets after the afternoon of fishing in the recently filled waterhole from the rainy season, and bringing some small fish home for their family, before they are even 8 pr 9 years old…who have a responsibility for their siblings lives as soon as there is a younger brother or sister. I have seen countless times a 3 year old kid guiding their 1yr old sibling away from the danger of the road when in our country they wouldn’t even know how to keep themselves from danger… These half clothed kids are so good and making makeshift toys too… anything from flowers to rocks to straw. Very creative. A simple life. Such a foreign concept for me. My life is spent rushing from one thing to the next. I saw a mother just standing watching the beautiful sun set over green rice paddies as if she hadn’t a care in the world….. when was the last time that I did the same without being pulled away by pressures of my next appointment. So what is the difference between the two scenarios of her life and mine?? Is it merely the absence or presence of wealth? Is it the fact that I am so materialistic that I cannot “waste” a moment that could be spent attaining something like money, social status, self-satisfaction or entertainment? Can I learn from her to be content with the fact that I have a roof over my head, even if it is straw, and have a meal on the table, even if it is only rice and some beans? Is she happier than me? Is it about happiness or is it really about being content with what you have, and what you DON’T have. Is it a bad thing that I can eat what I want, when I want, buy what I want when I want and go wherever I please. I sometimes wish I was born into the “other” side of the world. Maybe then I would have time for God, more than a few rushed moments in time a day. Maybe then I would really live my life how it was meant to be……working the fields, eating my own produce…instead of spending a lifetime in front of my computer or indulging in self gratification. What would happen if all of a sudden I was in her life, and she swapped to mine? Would people that know me notice a change? Would I become more giving, sharing, grateful, worthy of the things that I have? Would the people that know her notice a change in her?? How would I live my life as her? Would I sit and cry because I don’t have this or that, or cry out to the rest of the world to notice me and my poor situation and wonder how no one is helping me?? Or would I get on with life and live?.
Labels:
Cambodia,
children,
comparing lives,
contemplation,
poverty,
western consumerism
Sunday, November 23, 2008
Crocodiles and Butterflies (Solomon Islands)
It's funny how our minds work. My equation to explain it is this: active imagination + slight possibility= worse case scenario. If you are around children with headlice, isn't it funny how your head starts to get really itchy and you swear that you have contracted headlice, but you never really get any. You hear the rumour (however realistic it is) about how 1 in 3 people have worms, and then you suddenly feel something moving inside your stomach. Plus looking at the two people either side of you and wondering which of you is more likely to have worms. or when it's your first time to visit a place which has the occasional crocodile spotting and so while snorkelling in the beautiful multicouloured-fish-filled waters of the Western Solomon Islands, every direction you are not looking, you can just sense a 6-foot dark yellow-eyed salt water croc watching your every move, carefully observing which legs looks nicest to grab! But then, now is always the best time to tell yourself to get over it. Sitting about 5 metres from the ocean waves noisily throwing themselves onto the small measure of beach left at high tide, sitting in an old wooden chair in a hut-style rotunda in an eco-lodge in Ramata. I have plenty of time on my hands to relax and put my feet up after a busy day and recall my recent thoughts, which may I say are many as I have had alot of alone time lately (seems to happen alot here, I love it!) which is usually a catalyst for deep, profound and inspiring thoughts from the mind of Charlene. One image I just can't seem to push from my mind is one which I see sometimes while sitting on the bow of the boat, hugging the rim with my knees to stop myself from plunging into the warm water in rough conditions, sitting for hours on end while the 25 horsepower engine whines in the background as we plod our way to the next destination to meet with women from the Marovo Women's Association. More women's groups, more monitoring, more businesses to visit. While going along slowly, dodging rocks and coral which is sticking up too high for the propeller's liking, I never tire from looking down into the crystal clear water, amazed that at even 4 or 5 metres of water I can see every fish going about his or her daily schedule, annoyed at being rudely interrupted, but still showing its beautiful colours, probably totally unaware at how amazingly stunning it looks! But what impresses me most are the butterflies. not because they are beautiful or graciously gentle, but for their utterly incomprehensible will power and commitment to never give up. As we are speeding along I see many of them, sometimes battling against strong wind and relentless rain, in the middle of the lagoon, with a kilometre or so to the next island or land mass. How in the world do they do it? I am sure some of them fly so hard and so long and are in close range of their destination, only to be tragically blown half-way back by a strong ocean wind- but they keep on flying...as if nothing can beat them down, with a 'never settle for less' attitude that inspires me. and today, I saw a small one, a young one, and i thought to myself, what a great example to me of how I should live my life. Never letting being young stop me from doing anything. making sure that what is at the end of my journey, has been well worth it. I wonder why such a small butterfly would leave the comforts of its home and everything that is familiar, and go out across the ocean, to fight wind, rain, bird, boat or whatever its challenges are- all to get to the other side. I don't know if that butterfly made it to its destination. I sure hope it did because it deserved it. but all I know is that sometimes God calls us to be like that small butterfly- to leave our comforts behind and go, but unlike the butterfly, at least we know that our destination is worth it. What an example of never giving up. But I think it's time for me to give up writing now, because I have been bitten twice now by fire ants crawling up my chair and on to the table. they are so small I wonder how is it physically possible for them to bit me and yet a daddy-long-legs spider can't. So I will just sit here and stare at the ocean, in the vain hope that I will see a whale or dolphins cruising by. waiting for the cassava, tai-yo, coconut milk and mushroom and capsicum soup and rice to digest so I can hit my mosquito net shrouded bed, and hopefully get a full night's sleep, uninterrupted by my active imagination + slight possibility=worstcase scenario's involving bed bugs and malaria-carrying mosquitoes. Oh I love my job!
Now I clearly understand why they call them FIRE ants!! ouch!!
Labels:
ADRA,
Butterflies,
fire ants,
God,
Luzuk,
Solomon Islands
Thursday, December 20, 2007
Power Corrupting Absolutely (Country's name withheld)
Precious gems in abundance, elegant teak trees filling the mountain ranges, gold covered temples, jade spilling out of mines, resources so rich in abundance, making . Burma, or Myanmar as the new military power have named it, one of the richest countries in Asia. Why then is it that everywhere I look I see poverty running so deep that hope has been given up decades before. I see cars so old that they have been repaired and re-repaired for years and years gone by until there is hardly an original part left because of the import bans. Hospitals, schools, shops falling apart while a scarce few boast mansions and riches. This is Burma. The land of intentional poverty and affliction, so that the elect few can rule the country by force and fear. The military took over the country by force years ago, and why are they still in power today? Strip the people into fear and desperation and you gain control. It’s as simple as that. Not one thing happens here without some no-name with a gun or badge clad uniform’s nod of approval. Crossing a bridge, taking a photo, sending, receiving, and buying. One word of criticism of the military power will land you in jail. And if that happens, you are as good as dead. A mobile phone costs US$1000 to limit communication freedom, and if you can afford that, your calls will be listened to at any time. Every email sent in, to or from Burma is printed and filed, yes, EVERY ONE. That is only around a million a day. Every possible form of control here is and has been introduced, even if they gain nothing from it. The people hate it, but cannot escape because in their poverty, how could they ever afford it? And where could they go? I have tried to limit the name of the country in this blog just in case I am denied access to the country again. It has happened to someone else I know.
But the people do the best they can. The luckier ones are the husbands who somehow borrow enough money to go and work overseas and send money back to their families and relatives, absent for years and years, sacrificing vital time with their families, missing seeing their children grow up. But they are ensuring a better future for their children. Everything seems so unfortunate. One young guy finished University with 4 HD’s, but could not get the scholarship he deserved because he does not have a national ID card due to his ethnic inferiority.
If you crash your motorbike, and don’t even hit anyone or anything else, it could land you in jail, no questions asked. Then you might be up for hard labour with shackled feet, for hours. I could go on but I won’t. It seems like nothing is being done about this horrible situation. People are suffering. Children are hungry. What is being done?
The monks were the only ones brave enough to stand amid the risk of death and look what happened to them. They saw it fit to sacrifice their lives just to gain the attention of the world in order to bring peace and fair rule to their country. Hundreds died, but the world has forgotten them and their plight already. Most people wish for freedom from their current country situation, but have already given up hope. I don’t blame them. It’s been happening for 40 years. The only thing we can do is spread the knowledge of the horrible things going on there and hopefully draw attention to it.
It is a beautiful country filled with beautiful people just wanting the chance at life that we have had, merely because we happened to be born on a free privileged continent.
Thursday, November 8, 2007
Charlene's Travel Tips for Asia!
Lately I have had alot of people asking me for travel tips to make traveling go more smoothly, and i have also heard alot of easily avoidable situations. So here is a list of do's and don'ts, travel cheats and other things which will help you travel in Asia------------------
(added 04/08) When on the plane, it is tempting to pig out on food and drinks- if you drink alot of juice or soda drinks you quickly suffer from what I call- 'plane sugar overload' which is when you consume too much sugar and because you are sitting motionless for 12 hours you start feeling really horrible and gluggy. This is easily aviodable by refraining from all drinks except water and the occasional juice. sounds a bit simple but can make your journey much more pleasant. Same goes with food.
General:- Do not pay for services until after you have received what you have agreed on. Eg. When I was in Cambodia, some kids said they would guard my motorbike for me if I paid them $1. So I did because I wanted to help them out and they would help me out in return, so I gave them the money and left. An hour later I came back to find them playing in a field near by and only rush back to guard my bike when I was back. Lesson Learnt: If I had said” I will give you 20c now and 80c when I return if you guard the bike”, then they would have stayed by it the whole time, to make sure they would get the full amount. Same with taxi drivers, shop keepers anyone, always try to pay after you have seen/received what you are paying for.- Because you look like a tourist, most locals will triple the price hoping that you’re new to the country and will pay what they ask. When I have no idea how much to pay, I bring it back to half the price and if they refuse, try another one, and then another… if you come to the third one and they say no, you know your asking an unreasonable price so you bring it up to a price you are both happy to pay. Don’t be afraid to smile and say no thanks and find another taxi or whatever you are looking for.- The golden rule though, is finding a price which you and the seller are both happy with and that is all that matters.- I find the most joy in my travels from talking to strangers. Not scary dodgey looking ones, but people on the bus next to me, or a young group of youths standing on the street near me, and don’t be afraid to ask questions and suggest things. I have had ice cream with strangers, have gone shopping with girls my age, and many other fun experiences like that, without any danger because I stay in crowded places and avoid people who look like they want your handbag, haha. They always get a thrill out of it too because it’s a rare chance they can hang out with a foreigner and practice their English.- Be patient in all situations. Nothing grinds me more than seeing stupid foreigners blasting lovely nice locals/staff because of a mix up of times or bookings or simple mistakes- GET USED TO IT because it was your choice to travel to a country who doesn’t speak the same language as you. These things are bound to happen and are a part of travelling. Having a respect for others is a big thing, because a lot of tourists see themselves as superior to the locals. This sets up a lot of barriers between cultures.Register with your Movements with your National Embassy:- If you are travelling to a possibly dangerous place, search for –“Register Travel Embassy” and register what country you will be in in case of an emergency so they know where you are to evacuate you. I have done this for going to Burma soon because there is a risk of civil unrest, and natural disasters like floods etc. I only register if there are actual risks.- For more information see http://www.smartraveller.gov.au/
Communicating:- Use fewer words instead of more words when someone doesn’t understand. I am constantly amazed at people’s efforts to communicate when travelling. Eg. You say to a person who doesn’t speak much English; “I’m going to the shop to buy some fruit”. When they look at you puzzled, most people would go on to say “I'm going down to the shop down the road there on the left to buy some fruit because I’m hungry and want to eat” to try to explain. But you need to cut your words down and speak slower: “I go shop, buy fruit, hungry” then you will be amazed at how easy it is for them to understand.- Body language is vital, use it as much as possibleEg. If you’re asking if someone is hungry, pat your stomach, or if you’re saying it’s too bright, wince your eyes and cover them with your hands…. Easy!
Eating:- If you are wondering where to eat out, always look for busy restaurants, they are busy for a reason, because they are good. If there is no one in a restaurant, avoid it.- Water: ALWAYS DRINK BOTTLED WATER WITH A PLASTIC SEAL!- Street food: this depends on the country you travel to. Most decisions should be based on common sense and observation. From trial and error I have found that in Bangkok, a lot of the street food is ok, like smoothies, fruit (which is on ice or looks like its just been cut), or things which are prepared before you. Obviously you wouldn’t buy a bag of chopped pineapple if it was the last one they were selling, who knows how long they’ve had for.- Fruit: if you’re not sure the safest options are skinned fruits, especially thick skinned fruits. Oranges and mangoes are always ok, apples and other thin skinned fruits should always be peeled first.- Boiled beverages are ok to drink- I have been to some pretty hairy places and the tea was the only thing I knew I could drink.
Sickness:If you are sick and have vomiting and diahorrea from something you ate these are some things you must remember:- You must drink water, whether you feel like it or not, drink drink drink. Otherwise you will feel even worse the next day when you can’t get out of bed cos you’re massively suffering dehydration.- Do not eat watermelon- everyone in Thailand will tell you this, so just listen to them because they are right. It upsets your stomach more.- Understand why your body is doing what its doing; let it get the bugs out by vomiting and diahorrea, well, to a certain extent.- Charcoal Tablets: buy a bottle of activated charcoal tablets before you leave. Charcoal absorbs the toxins and bad things inside you and carries them out quickly. I usually take 4 or 5 tablets every 4 hours. Sounds like a lot, but I think they recommend taking 10!! 4 or 5 seem to work ok. Activated charcoal differs from normal charcoal as it is made in a way which does not cause cancer. So it’s safe and good for you. Don’t be shocked when it comes out the same colour- Oral Rehydration Salts (ORS) sachets are a must, can buy them from any chemist in Asia (they seem to be everywhere) for about 15c each or way less than that. These help rehydrate you, and any time you start losing fluids you should start with these. They have been a life saver for me! I like the orange flavour.- Malaria: Malaria risks are found throughout Asia, some regions more dangerous than others. Unless the area is tagged as high risk from the bad strand of Malaria, you are best off taking precautions instead of malaria medications. Malaria medications are known to have bad side affects, and actually don’t really protect you at all, it just masks the symptoms until you stop taking it, or will just come out a month or two later. If you do get a bad fever, shivering etc while travelling, go and see a doctor straight away and have a malaria test. Its better to go in the country you are in because doctors there will be able to diagnose you faster than in our own countries because its rare back home. Mot of the time you get given medication and in a week you are better again, even though you feel like you will die during the week of recovery, and no, I have not had malaria but have met a lot of people who have.- Precautions against Malaria and other mosquito carried viruses/diseases like dengue fever: These mosquitoes usually come out at dusk and dawn, so make sure your exposed skin is covered and you have mosquito repellent on. Mosquito nets are usually available, if your buying one make sure its been treated if possible.
Travelling:- You will find yourself faced with many forms of transport in Asia, from buses and trains, boats, planes, motorbikes, tuk-tuks (motorbikes towing a carriage-like thing on the back which you sit in) and even horses. As much as I love them, motorbikes carry the most risk and should be avoided. Personally I use motorbike taxis (motos) in places which are not main roads, like going through the back streets of BKK, and try to choose ones which have a passenger helmet. I have seen so many motorbikes being crashed into and it’s not nice.- In poorer countries like Cmabodia, there is only one road rule- if its bigger than you, it has right of way. Because there are no traffic rules (well no one follows them), its all about the flow of traffic. if you have to ride a motorbike yourself try to never stop like at roundabouts etc, just flow and merge all together. Stopping causes more problems in a flowing situation :)- Buses are cheap, taxis are safe, more expensive and slower than motorbikes, trains are often crowded, but just judge what will be best for your situation.- Walking is the best way to see the sights in city areas, you miss a lot of detail and interaction when you drive by in a taxi. I once walked one and a half hours back to my hotel from church in BKK and it was great!
Accommodation:- A good night sleep means a good days work. I think its fun to find cheap hotels/rooms, but when you get a bad one, it’s bad. Don’t be afraid to ask for your room to be cleaned if its not, in Beijing I randomly booked a $6 room and when the lady walked me in the bed was half made and things were dirty so I asked for another room. They took me there knowing it wasn’t clean but because I asked, they gave me a better one.- If check out is at 10am and your plane is at 6pm at night, all hotels allow you to leave your luggage at the reception until you leave. You can usually request to book out 2 hours later also, just ring and ask.
Culture issues:- Every country has its do’s and don’ts which you can learn from either your own mistakes or from other peoples mistakes. Here is a list of my own which I have discovered;- In most Asian countries, it is disrespectful to touch people on the head, as it is the most sacred part of the body. The feet are the least sacred so you should never step over anyone or point/gesture with your feet as this is an insult.- Outside of city areas where things are less modernised, your clothing choices must be very conservative- no singlet tops or short pants. Everything at or below the knee and have your shoulders and mid areas covered. You might think, well, they can just get over it, but it might be the same as someone walking through the mall with no pants on, I know I would be offended, so we must respect other cultural practices.- If you are in a situation where you are offered something to eat or drink which you are not able to consume (eg. I don’t drink alcohol and often get offered things culturally like in Mongolia), so in these situations you can try to refuse with a big smile, but if they insist or look offended, just pretending to sip is enough to respect them, as there may be no way to communicate why you cant.- If you take photos of people especially if you have interrupted them in what they are doing, giving a little something thanking them for taking their photo is appreciated. I always carry food around for this. (only in ultra poor areas.. if you gave something to someone in BKK they would probably laugh at you.)- Remember that gestures are different across the world, so before you get offended, think about this first. When I arrived in Japan, one of the church ladies was gesturing me to go away and I was like, what! But she was actually gesturing for me to come to her. Just have to learn by mistakes!-
Beggars: Beggars are a common place encounter, and often make you feel uncomfortable and not know what to do. The truth is that many beggars in tourist areas are actually run like a business. It’s sad because they collect money all day only to have to hand it to their boss, and they only receive a teeny amount if anything, usually just a bit of food and a place to sleep. I’m not going to get into the horrible things which get done to kids to make them better beggars, like burn them with acid and give them someone’s half dying baby to sling around their necks to get money from pitiful tourists. So what I do is carry around food with me, and when if I give something, its food for them to eat there and then, and they are grateful. If I'm in a market place and there are beggars everywhere, you really just have to ignore them. If you give to them, all the others see and swamp you, but if you don’t give to them, you feel bad. It’s a no win situation that you just have to deal with. When I eat out I always over order in Cambodia and get the extra food wrapped up. On my way home I look for people lying in the street, or look like they are starving and I stop and give the food to them.It’s a common mistake to think that just because people are poor that they are totally ignorant. I am constantly amazed at new ways that people figure out to make money, kids who learn English to sell post cards etc.Giving money away makes the receivers dependent. That’s why organisations like ADRA work on helping people help themselves instead of just giving things to people like welfare. But I believe there is a time and place for welfare, so whatever you do, just think it through and I believe that it is our duty to share with those less fortunate than us. Just be aware of scams.
Vital items in your travel kit-- ORS sachets- Passport- Pain killers- List of important phone number (emabassy etc)- A copy of your passport photo page (mine is laminated)- Diahorrea tablets- Insect repellent- Ear plugs- Eye mask- Alcohol wipes
Well, this is only the first draft of my travel tips, I will keep it updated. Any questions about anything are welcome, most of all, enjoy your travels!
Sunday, August 19, 2007
Mongolia-sheep herder visit
I have set foot in many countries, but I have never felt this way before. There is something about Mongolia, as you step off the plane and look around you at the mountainous yet abundantly open spaces, which makes you feel something deep inside, a kind of peace or gut feeling that this is a special place. It’s not a ‘wow I love this place, it’s so beautiful, I want to live here’ kind of thing. Its more of a profound yet mysterious satisfaction to have the privilege to be a silent witness to the great power of raw nature. To be in a place where time stands still, where eagles spend their days soaring under bright sun-touched clouds, and where urbanisation seems to have given up hope of finding a resting place- this is Mongolia.
After two days out in the rural province of Zavhan, visiting project sites and seeing so many people who were once ultra poor, now have businesses up and running thank to loans from ADRA, I finally had a couple of hours to myself before the sun set. I had waited two days already to shower seeing the water only came out freezing, so waiting another couple of hours wouldn’t hurt while I took a walk over to the river nearby. Being thankful for the sun setting around 8 or 9pm, I wandered across the rocky excuse for a road and headed across the plain towards the mountains. The river was running and birds were splashing around in the side streams, so beautiful. In the distance I could see Gers- traditional round white dwelling places covered with animal skins and or other material. I read about how Mongolian people are very welcoming friendly people, and so I thought I would wander across the plains and just see what would happen. As I neared the first couple of Gers a few hundred metres apart, I saw some people outside the second Ger doing something. As I got closer, I saw the forms of two sheep with two men bending over them. Yes! I was right; they were preparing the sheep, and had only just killed them minutes before. Thinking that I had nothing to lose, I timidly walked towards them hoping not to be seen as an arrogant tourist with her camera. As I neared them, they all slowly stopped what they were doing and acknowledged me. I greeted the lady closest to me with my best rendition of “Sem be no” (hello). She smiled and nodded as I gestured whether or not I could take some photos of the slaughter. I had arrived just in time; an older man and younger one were starting to slit open the belly line of the sheep. They laughed at my curiosity at what to them was a common task, and I took lots of photos. Then I happily heard a voice behind me asking’ wher you fro? English! Yay! I could now communicate! I told the man in his late 20’s that I was from Australia. I was amazed at how easily the older man was stripping the sheep of its skin with his bare hands. In about 20 mins, the whole sheep was ‘done. I won’t explain how because it was pretty intense, I’ll let you watch my video clip of it. The whole family was involved, the young kids watching as their grandma emptied the intestines, the aunt emptied and washed the stomach, and while their grandpa scooped out the blood and insides into a big bowl. Nothing was wasted. The English speaking guy asked me if I wanted to try some yoghurt, and even though I knew the taste would be disturbing, I jumped at the opportunity to be welcomed into a Ger. As I stooped to go through the door which came only to my shoulders, I was delighted to see the Ger filled with old ladies, young babies sleeping and other family members, dressed in their traditional dress. The following day was the sister’s wedding, and I could see the ‘cake’ on the table. It was made up of a base of terraced bread stick/waffle kinda things with all different cheeses on top. Of course, the staple milk curd was on top. As I sat and interacted with all of the family holding babies and taking lots of photos, the guy made me some yogurt, goat milk yoghurt. I had a taste and it was as I expected, and could only handle two mouthfuls with a smiley ‘i'm trying to enjoy it’ face. I was then offered a nice little bottle with a cap and was told to sniff it. So I did. I asked why and they communicated that when you say hello and someone hands you a bottle, you open it and sniff it. I couldn’t put my finger on the aroma….minty yet floury. Who knows what it was. (i later found out it was a Snuff Bottle willed with powdered flavoured tobacco)Then I got handed a shot of Vodka, I laughed and gently gestured that I can’t drink alcohol, and they were cool with that. By this time, there ere around 15 people in the Ger which belonged to the grandfather who apparently is a famous herder in Mongolia. It was getting dark so reluctantly I said I must go home. The grand father grabbed my arm as I got up and gently pulled me in to kiss me on both cheeks. But it wasn’t a kiss, it was more of a planting lips on the cheek then sniffing quickly, so weird for the first time, then I realised it must be their way of kissing. Everyone “kissed’ me on my way out, and I ended up with wet cheeks anyway from an old lady who gave a sloppy kiss/sniff. As I walked away, the man told me to come visit them next time and to send him the photos. I walked the rest of the 20 mins back to my hotel grinning from ear to ear in gratefulness of the rich once in a lifetime experience that I had just had. Beautiful people, beautiful country.
Other Experiences from my trip:
-Riding a horse through the mountain lined plains/sandy dunes (i cantered for the first time! hadnt ridden for around 10 years...)
-Being forced to drink fermented horse milk, potentially one of the most disturbing things that has passed my lips- was when i visted a household of one of the project beneficiaries, it was her wedding the day before... the milk tasted like off milk and yogurt, mixed with heaps of alcohol, and carbonated..... but the disturbing thing was it was just horse milk!
-The cloest ive come to being mauled by a dog, ran inside a building and hid in the shadows while a lady threw herself in front of the dog (the dog's owner think)...funnily enough, i wasnt scared..more like.. wow, i almost died! haha
- turbulence at its best..felt like a 4 yr old kid was holding onto the plane going "look how fast this plane goes mum, zoooom..up down up down ,rooooarrrr..."
- longest ive ever gone without a shower of any form- living in a Ger for 4 days..no water supply at all! was actually not as bad as i thought... but still heaven to shower when i got back today
- trying to milk a yak but it was looking at me the whole time knowing i didnt know what i was doing, and as i tried to grab its teat, it kicked me over and i spilt milk all over myself and everyone laughed at me. i would have laughed too... stupid yak
-scenery like postcards in every direction, 24/7.....unbelievable
so much more to say..... sorry i write so much all the time :)
Tuesday, June 12, 2007
Teach a Man to Fish
Teach a Man to Fish…
By Charlene Luzuk, International Programme Coordinator, ADRA NZ
Please imagine the scene; you have just embarked on your first trip to Asia, and your taxi from the Phnom Penh airport in Cambodia has dropped you off outside your hotel. It looks quite different to the brochures you saw when you picked it, but as you gaze around you cant see any better looking ones around. As you step out of the taxi, you feel the wave of heat roll over your body, and you stop and think, wow!! If this is what its like all the time, I think I’ll overheat and die!
As your forehead starts to gather beads of sweat, you check in to your hotel. Your room is simple, but it has an air conditioner! Putting your bags under your bed and taking anything worth of value with you, you wander out of your hotel with your trusty Lonely Planet Guide book and head for the nearest markets, not even attempting to pronounce the name. The air is dusty, and as you are looking up at the sky, listening to the drone of countless motorbikes zooming by, close enough to touch, your foot knocks into something and you stumble. Looking down, you are shocked to see that you have walked into a crippled man on the pavement. He is looking at you with his head at a peculiar angle, and he holds out a dirty cup with a few small crumpled notes in it. You continue to look at his body, avoiding his gaze and you see that his legs are, well, how can you say, one is twisted up behind his lower back, and the other one is half formed and supporting his body, folded in front of him. The sight is rather disturbing, and after all of these thoughts and images pass through your mind in a split second, you say your sorry and walk away hurriedly. As you continue to walk, your conscience begins relentlessly nagging you saying ‘Do something! Stop and go back and help the man! Give him some money!’ but you feel so uncomfortable and don’t know what to do. Someone must look after him though, you try to reason with yourself, I have heard about beggars begging because its good money, and its actually their job and they work for someone, but what if he is for real? So you stop in your steps, retrace your footsteps and reaching into your bag as you approach him, pour all of your loose change into the mans outstretched cup. You see your packet of chips and you leave those next to him too. Feeling relieved, you walk away, noticing the man didn’t say thank you, but happy that your conscience was quiet. You think about your act of welfare, and how now, because of your actions, that man can eat for a day or two. You gave him hope and help. What a blessing.
Now the spanner gets thrown into the works. This illustration (although quite a realistic one) is an example of welfare, but ADRA over the past 20 years has moved away from welfare to focus on development. How can this be? Let’s first distinguish between the two terms;
Welfare: Aid in the form of money or necessities for those in need (Merriam-
Webster)
This sounds like ADRA doesn’t it? Indeed, but have a look at the definition of development:
Development: a state in which things are improving; it meets the needs and
aspirations of the current generation, without compromising the
ability of the future generations to meet their own needs.
(unisdr.org)
Many people think that ADRA’s work involves a lot of going around giving out free things to the poor and needy. Don’t get me wrong, there is a time and a place for that like in emergency relief situations. But welfare, when looking at the bigger picture often does more damage than good. It promotes dependency and can only be short term in impact. Take a look at this amazing Chinese proverb-
Give a man a fish, and he eats for a day;
Teach a man to fish and he eats for a life time
This is exactly what ADRA is about. By teaching a man to fish, instead of just giving a fish to him, he is educated, equipped and skilled to go out and feed himself. This way he is empowered to work and be responsible for his own future, and doesn’t have to stand in line every day, waiting for a fish to eat, he can go and feed his whole family because he has been a part of effective development. In Bangladesh and the Solomon Islands, ADRA NZ has projects which do exactly this. Women are trained to read and write so that they can then manage the family finances, and the loan which they receive to start a business to support their family, leaving them self-supporting, educated and empowered. This could never have been achieved by giving them food every day, because soon enough the funding would run out and they are left exactly as they were found.
Throughout the Bible, there are countless texts referring to the poor and how we are to care for them and be welfare driven towards them. It is our duty to help our brothers and sisters when we see that they are in need, so please note that I am not discouraging notions of welfare in our lives, but merely explaining that the most effective way to help lift people out of poverty on the big scale of things is by looking to the long term solution, and the most practical. By concentrating on lifting up a community by development like educating the children and teaching the parents how to farm, the effects trickle down even to the poorest of the poor.
So as you continue to support ADRA, know that your money goes to helping people help themselves, changing the world one life at a time.